In reality, water is without a doubt the most important thing in the life of a fish, just as air is for humans . When we decide to keep discus, it is essential to recreate conditions as close as possible to those in which Discus live in the Amazon, that is, soft water (with few mineral salts) and acidic, with a pH below 7 .I believe that over these 20 years the great secret of breeding, growth and maintenance lies mainly in the water in which we keep our Discus. I have often been confronted with the old question: what is the best pH for discus ? Well, there is no "best" pH ! There is, however, a range in which I have always bred and kept my discus, and it runs between 6.0 and 7.0 ! After my experience in Brazil, which I will talk about further on, I have come to the conclusion that fish caught in rivers with a pH of 4.5 can, with good acclimation, live and thrive at pH values of 7.4. What matters is to have soft water with low conductivity, that is, never above 300 microsiemens . Otherwise the fish become frightened and under stress , lose their appetite, often turn dark and can even fall ill .So I recommend a pH of around 6.5 with a temperature between 27º and 30º. As for hardness, it should be low, but never below 80 microsiemens or above 300 microsiemens . Hardness is therefore essential both for breeding and for keeping these fantastic fish. Something equally fundamental, without a doubt, is also water quality . Discus like water free of nitrite , nitrates and above all ammonia, which can be deadly even in small concentrations . Good filtration is therefore essential, as are frequent water changes, depending of course on the number of fish per aquarium. I usually advise about 40 litres of water for each adult fish (of about 14 cm) and never aquariums smaller than 60 litres to keep discus . The smaller the aquarium, the more difficult it is to have good water quality.The smaller the aquarium, the more partial water changes we have to make . We must always pay attention to water changes and top-ups in aquariums of discus . The new water must have a chemistry (pH , hardness) and temperature as similar as possible to that of the aquarium. Another thing to watch is the disinfectants added to tap water, which are often deadly to discus . Chlorine and chloramine are some of the disinfectants commonly used in drinking water. I always advise letting that water stand for 48 hours in order to release some of those disinfectants that are harmful to our fish . For this purpose we should always use some colorimetric tests for pH , nitrite , nitrates , ammonia , hardness and chlorine to identify the chemical state of the water . At a more advanced stage, with many fish and many aquariums, it is worth having well-calibrated digital devices to measure the chemistry of the water more precisely Of course, all of this is relative, as it depends on the filtration and on the amount of food given to the fish every day . Knowing that excess uneaten food is harmful to the water and spoils it At most, the food given to the fish should not stay in the aquarium for more than half an hour .We must also make sure that the same food is not drawn into the filter, where it stays deposited, rotting and causing chemical changes in the water (appearance of nitrite and nitrates) .These simple rules should always be kept in mind so that we do not have problems with poor water quality . Bad water cycles (the nitrogen cycle) often cause bacterial diseases if the fish are introduced too early. I have always advised putting a fish into new water with a minimum of one month of cycling .Discus, from experience of my own, like mature water, well cycled .
Miraculous leaves ...
Terminalia catappa, does the name sound strange? Certainly the plant is not unknown .
This plant is known in Brazil by several common names; depending on the region it may be called Castanheira, Castanheira Portuguesa, Castanha da Índia, Castanhola, Sete Copas, Chapéu de Sol and possibly other names. It was introduced into Brazil by the Portuguese, brought from India during the colonisation of our country, and adapted perfectly to the various climates of our giant, and today, if nobody says anything, many people will go on thinking it is native, but it is not, it is an exotic plant. Abroad the most common name is Indian almond leaves, but it is not hard to see the plant being called miraculous leaves or magic leaves.
But what is so special about this plant that it is being discussed on a blog that is basically about aquariums?
This plant is nowadays the subject of several studies; one of the metabolites present in its leaves has already been identified as bactericidal and fungicidal, among other possible applications, including against cancer. It has been used in the folk medicine of Asia for centuries and, in addition, it is used as a tonic and an aid in the treatment of ornamental fish; this secret was kept for a long time by the Orientals and with the advent of the internet the information has finally leaked out. Although better-informed people are already aware of the use of these leaves in the East, here in Brazil there is still no knowledge, at least none has been published, of the practical application in the breeding and keeping of ornamental fish.
Anyone who knows a little about how fish farming is done in Asia knows that any Brazilian would be shocked by the number of fish kept in tanks and ponds, a quantity far above any average commonly known and established among us. We imagine that a large number of deaths and of problems related to overpopulation would be expected in such intensive farming... but that is not what happens; the Asians have always astonished Westerners with their production volume. One of the secrets is water quality and that is exactly where the leaf of Terminalia catappa comes in. In the farming of food fish, tilapia for example, T. catappa is a recognised alternative to the use of antibiotics.
Among the qualities that can today be found reported on sites and forums of the most varied nationalities are:
- Stimulates breeding;
- High antifungal power;
- High antibacterial power;
- High antiparasitic power;
- Intensifies the colours of the fish;
- Improves the general health of the fish;
- Lowers the pH;
- Simulates dark-water conditions (Black Water).
The dried leaves of Terminalia catappa are widely used by breeders of Bettas, Discus and other fish from acidic waters mainly, although it is easy to find references to their use with several other species such as Rasboras, for example. The leaves are used dried inside the filtration compartment, a place of strong water circulation, in the proportion of 1 leaf for every 15 gallons, which in litres is 1 leaf for every 56 L or so. These leaves now have a strong international trade and are much appreciated by breeders of Killifish and European Discus (mainly in Germany) and are currently finding an expanding trade among American hobbyists, who have been acquiring them over the internet.
With so many qualities and so many positive references, I wonder why in Brazil, which has this plant from north to south, there are no references to its use or experimentation... surely people are waiting for a large American site to announce its sale, and then the craze will reach here.
Why not try it?
If you became curious about it, I think an experiment is entirely worthwhile; for Betta breeders used to using banana leaf in the treatment of some infections, here is an excellent opportunity to experiment.
To use the leaves it is recommended to pick them while still green and dry them in the shade; this prevents contaminating agents that take advantage of the death of the leaf to settle in from being introduced into the aquarium together with dry leaves collected from the ground. Obviously the defensive power of the leaf is much greater when it is still lush and healthy on its branch. After picking, the leaves must be washed and set out to dry; after drying just place them in a place of strong water circulation, in this case the filters. It is worth remembering that the leaf, as mentioned above, will tint the water a yellowish tea colour, so if you do not like the colour, consider yourself warned.
Expected effects
The fish are expected to react by showing all their vigour, to have low susceptibility to infections and to have their colours intensified; these are the general effects associated with the use of the leaves. In breeding, a decrease and even absence of fungused eggs (white eggs) is expected, as well as an increase in the number of fry surviving the first days.
How to Use
Each leaf can treat up to 56 L (10 G) of water. Simply place the whole leaf in your aquarium or in any container with water and leave it there for at least 5 days, or up to 10 days for best results. The water will gradually become tea-coloured over the following days, at first a soft colour intensifying as the application goes on. If you have a container of less than 56 L, you can apply the leaves separately and dilute the solution into the container you want to treat, but you can also reduce the proportion of leaves in relation to the contents of the container. The leaves must be removed after 10 days of use, since all their beneficial properties such as tannic acid have already been released into the tank.
For small containers, such as breeding Betta jars, you can use a piece of leaf of about 3.5 to 7 cm2 added directly to the container, leaving it there for at least 3 days, or five for best results. Treating the water with the leaves of Terminalia catappa reduces the need for changes in these containers from several a week to one a week; even so, you should not stop making changes.
Curious and going to try it? Great, follow the method of preparation and use given above and do not forget to share the results.
Research links for anyone who wants to go deeper into the subject:
google: Indian Almond Leaves or Terminalia catappa + fish
